Off-Piste in Prague!
Prague sits at the epicentre of Europe and has been attracting invaders for centuries, now in the form of exuberant party people from across the European continent eager to make the most of the city’s vibrant atmosphere and acceptable prices.
I’ve been coming to Prague for a few years. On this visit, I stayed at the Hilton Prague Old Town, an ideal address to explore Prague Old & New. I noticed a predominance of American and Asian guests so there’s no end to the city’s global appeal. It is, in fact, the fifth most visited city in Europe!
Far From The Madding Crowd
“Such appeal could lead to a half-time huddle of humanity in the town’s more popular spots, such as the Old Town, Charles Bridge, and Prague Castle. ”
I was looking to swerve the Madding Crowd and discover a Prague that is more sociably interesting and chilled. Don’t get me wrong, Prague’s peak attractions are all worth sampling but it’s nice to know you can take a little time out now and then!
Prague is essentially a walking city, so you’ll need a comfortable pair of walking shoes. There are alternatives such as e-bikes, scooters, trams, and trolleys, but generally, you cannot avoid a bit of street-level hiking!
Prague 1 & 2
Some imaginative bureaucrat, probably in the sterner Communist times divided downtown Prague into two districts, Prague 1 & Prague 2. Prague 1 encompasses the historic heart of the city, including the Staré Město (the Old Town) and Josefov (the Jewish Quarter), Malá Strana (the Little Quarter), Hradčany, and Nové Město (the New Town).
This is where tourists congregate like birds of a feather, gaggling and gawping along the storied streets. Again, don’t get me wrong! It’s all infinitely worth sampling… just avoid the tourist cafes or restaurants if you value your hard-earned korunas.
Prague 2 is less historic and a lot less hysterical. It offers more locally-oriented cafes, restaurants, and pleasant places to hang out. Just for the record, the Prague district numbering system goes all the way up to 10.
Prague 1
Prague 1 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and here you will find the city’s historic hotspots including Prague Castle, Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, and the Jewish Quarter. The astronomical clock gracing the Old Town Hall was installed in 1410 making it the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest still in operation.
Built by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century, the Charles Bridge connects the Old Town (Staré Mesto) with the Lesser Town (Malá Strana) on the other side of the River Vltava. The bridge is more than 500 meters long and 10 meters wide, once sporting four lanes for the passage of carriages. Now, it’s pedestrianised and a must for photo opportunities. It’s possible to climb the 138 steps of the Charles Bridge Tower to gain a superior view of the bridge, river, and castle.
Off Piste
“This is the kind of Prague I like!”
There are side streets throughout the Old & New Town where you can amble at leisure, not far from the Madding Crowd but far enough to enjoy a quiet beer or memorable meal in harmony with the rest of Prague’s citizenry. The quality of these cafes and restaurants dare I say, is far more appealing than the ‘tourist establishments’ flanking the busier streets and squares. And at a far more reasonable price! You can dip back into the not-too-distant throng any time you like. This is the kind of Prague I like!
On a street called U Luzickeho Seminare, I came across the city’s narrowest street, a pedestrian passageway so tight that they had to install traffic lights to control the traffic. Heaven help us if an overweight person gets stuck. It’s a bit of fun and worth the travail as there’s a lovely restaurant and courtyard at the far end with views of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River.
Prague’s Hidden Passageways
“Tourists just don’t know about this side of Prague. ”
Speaking of passageways, my favourite experience on this visit was a guided walking tour of the town’s Art Deco arcades. I met my guide Dagmar at Saint Wenceslas Monument and commenced a fascinating exploration of a labyrinth of corridors and plazas that, at the turn of the 20th century, made up the city’s main shopping and entertainment centres.
These appealing corridors and arcades run off Saint Wenceslas Square. Featuring glass, brass, marble and metal, many are still impeccable, protected from the cold winters and harsh heat of the summer. They’re lively little enclaves used by the locals for community dancing, cafe culture, dining, and shopping… Oh yes, and cinema!
Dagmar was an excellent guide with a wealth of information about the arcades and the city in general. The two-hour tour covers a lot and there’s a fair bit of walking so I was delighted to take a break in the ‘Franciscan Garden’, a green oasis of peace & quiet 100 metres from the frenzy of Saint Wenceslas Square. Tourists just don’t know this side of Prague!
Prague & Silver Screen
I noticed several little cinemas within these delightful Art Deco arcades. Cinema in the early 20th century was particularly strong in Prague. I presume during the wars and the Communist era, people took to the silver screen to escape their rather grim daily lives. In the post-WWII era, more than 500 cinemas were built in Czechoslovakia, serving to show films and be places of cultural interaction.
“The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival is held not far from Prague, one of the oldest film festivals in the world, commencing in 1946 in the aftermath of World War II.”
Food For Thought
Czechia has fostered a host of artistic appreciation. Franz Kafka was one of the most influential writers of the 20th century and lived in Prague.
Tom Stoppard, the British playwright and screenwriter and winner of an Oscar for the screenplay for the film ‘Shakespeare in Love’ also comes from the Czech Republic. Writers, poets, and artists used to meet in delightful little cafes dotted around Prague and even Albert Einstein attended the regular Tuesday salons for traditional five o’clock tea.
“One of the best examples of Czech Cafe Culture still exists at Café Imperial which was once the meeting spot for the city’s literati. ”
Café Imperial
“The cafe’s current owner and head chef, Zdenek Pohlreich is the ‘Gordon Ramsay’ of Czech cuisine, ”
Today, more than a century after it opened, the Café Imperial retains an unforgettable Grand Café style as I discovered when I went there for dinner. The décor is hugely impressive, an architectural gem full of unique ceramic touches.
The cafe’s current owner and head chef, Zdenek Pohlreich is the ‘Gordon Ramsay’ of Czech cuisine, a culinary television personality, and a prodigious publisher of books, as attested by the array of publications at the entrance to his café. He has other restaurants in town such as Divinis, an Italian theme and apparently among the best in Prague. But I’ll have to leave that for my next visit.
Štangl Restaurant
Another interesting culinary experience was Štangl Restaurant, located in Forum Karlín, a taxi ride away from my hotel but well worth the short trip. This is a hipster haven, a loft-style restaurant that evolved from a bread shop & eatery that still exists downstairs. Both serve locally sourced foods for brunch, lunch, and dinner. I settled down for a six-course menu with wine pairings, a panoply of tasty little dishes balanced with biological wines from Czechia’s southern Moravia area.
Štangl’s only been open for a year and has a mere 36 seats so you feel you’re being personally attended to by the team who busy themselves around the open plan kitchen, conferring and engaged in whatever was going on.
My job was to nod gratefully as a conveyor belt of exquisite dishes was presented. The experience was quite unique and worth any mouthwatering wait. Even the cutlery and glasses are sourced locally from Czech companies working with artists who produce fine implements, even wooden bowls and spoons, a bit ‘Fred Flinstone’ for me… but part of the appeal!
Pragmatic Prague
I only stayed in Prague for four days on this visit and must admit, I fitted in three rounds of golf to an already full schedule. But I proved, if only to myself that there’s much more to this popular city than meets the eye. It’s easy to engage in an ‘alternative Prague’ and I strongly suggest you do the same!
