Prague has been attracting invaders for centuries, more recently in the form of exuberant party people eager to make the most of the city’s vibrant atmosphere and most acceptable prices.

*And who am I to resist? I’ve been coming to Prague for years now and still finding new approaches to this fabulous city.*

*The Hilton Prague Old Town is perfectly placed for exploring the Old Town.*

On this visit, I stayed at the Hilton Prague Old Town, an ideal address to explore Prague Old and New. This time, I noticed a predominance of American and Asian guests.

There’s no end to the city’s global appeal. It is, in fact, the fifth most visited city in all of Europe!

“Such appeal leads to a huddle of hassled humanity in the town’s more popular byways such as the Old Town, Charles Bridge, and Prague Castle. ”

*Take your pick. Transport options are almost endless around the city.*

Far From The Madding Crowd

This time I was looking to swerve the Madding Crowd and discover a Prague that is much more relaxed. Don’t get me wrong, Prague’s peak attractions are all worth sampling but it’s nice to know there are easy, attractive alternatives.

Having said all that, Prague is essentially a walking city so if you want to sample the real deal, you’ll need a comfortable pair of shoes.

*Join the happy throng prancing around Prague’s many pedestrianised streets.*

Prague 1

Back in Communist times, some imaginative bureaucrat divided downtown Prague into ten distinct districts. Prague 1 encompasses the historic heart of the city, including the Old Town, the Jewish Quarter, the Little Quarter and the New Town. This is where tourists congregate like birds of a feather, gaggling and gawping along the storied streets. Don’t get me wrong, it’s all infinitely worth sampling. Just don’t sit down at the tourist cafes or restaurants if you value your hard-earned korunas.

*On the hour, Prague’s* astronomical clock in the *Old Town Hall strikes a note with hundreds of sightseers.*

Prague 1 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and here you will find the city’s historic hotspots including Prague Castle, Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, and the Jewish Quarter. The astronomical clock gracing the Old Town Hall was installed in 1410 making it the third-oldest example in the world and the oldest still in operation.

A BRIDGE TOO FAR

Built by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century, the Charles Bridge connects the Old Town (Staré Mesto) with the Lesser Town (Malá Strana) on the other side of the River Vltava. The bridge is more than 500 meters long and 10 meters wide, once sporting four lanes for the passage of carriages. Now, it’s pedestrianised and a must for photo opportunities.

It’s possible to climb the 138 steps of the Charles Bridge Tower to gain a superior view of the bridge, river, and castle.

Prague 2 is less historic and a lot less hysterical. It offers more locally-oriented cafes, restaurants, and pleasant places to hang out.

Off Piste

“This is the kind of Prague I like!”

There are side streets throughout the Old & New Town where you can amble at leisure, not far from the Madding Crowd but far enough to enjoy a quiet beer or memorable meal in harmony with the rest of Prague’s citizenry. The quality of these cafes and restaurants is far more appealing than the ‘tourist establishments’ flanking the busier streets and squares. And at a far more reasonable price! You can dip back into the not-too-distant throng any time you like. This is the kind of Prague I like!

NARROWEST STREET

On U Luzickeho Seminare, I came across the city’s narrowest street, a pedestrian passageway so tight that they had to install traffic lights. Heaven help us if an overweight person gets stuck halfway. It’s a bit of fun and worth the travail as there’s a lovely restaurant and courtyard at the far end with great views of Charles Bridge and the Vltava River.

“Tourists just don’t know about this side of Prague.”

“The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival is held not far from Prague, one of the oldest film festivals in the world, commencing in 1946 in the aftermath of World War II.”

Food For Thought

Czechia has fostered a host of artistic appreciation. Franz Kafka was one of the most influential writers of the 20th century and lived in Prague.

Tom Stoppard, the British playwright and screenwriter and winner of an Oscar for the screenplay for the film ‘Shakespeare in Love’ also comes from the Czech Republic. Writers, poets, and artists used to meet in delightful little cafes dotted around Prague and even Albert Einstein attended the regular Tuesday salons for traditional five o’clock tea.

“One of the best examples of Czech Cafe Culture still exists at Café Imperial which was once the meeting spot for the city’s literati. ”

Café Imperial

“The cafe’s current owner and head chef, Zdenek Pohlreich is the ‘Gordon Ramsay’ of Czech cuisine, ”

Off-Piste in Prague!